Embroidered clothing has, for many centuries, been a very
popular way to decorate clothing and make it stand out from the others. However
the practice has a very long and rich history, stretching across many years and
many cultures. The sheer extent of this history may not come as a surprise to
some, however it is fascinating to look into nevertheless.
While we won’t go into too much detail regarding embroidered clothing here, it should help give an insight into how the practice came to be,
spread and reached the point it has today.
Early Beginnings
Evidence for embroidered clothes can be found first during
the Warring States period of China, back in the 5th-3rd
centuries BC. The practice was initially developed as a means of decorating,
repairing and reinforcing clothing, and gradually led to the development of new
sewing techniques that allowed the artistic potential of embroidery to
flourish. It was soon used to create highly elaborate designs on the tunics and
robes of prominent officials and merchants. The practice of embroidery then
gradually spread westward into India, Persia and then to the Roman Empires.
We later see evidence of further embroidered clothing during
the Migration period of the 4th to 6th centuries as the
Roman Empire in the west collapsed and was succeeded by several “barbarian”
successor kingdoms. Clothing at this time is found to have employed embroidery
as a means of reinforcing the borders of clothes in order to prevent from
becoming damaged and fraying, and was frequently used as a decorative addition
as well. Embroidery practices in Europe were already fairly advanced at this
time, with evidence of highly sophisticated methods of stitching and fairly
rich materials being used.
Medieval Styles
Usually embroidered clothing was used as a means of further
decorating clothing and making them stand out against their peers. As chivalry
heraldry became more common, it was quickly fashionable for young lords and
their retainers to wear their family crests and arms embroidered onto their
clothing and tunics, a similar practice being found in feudal Japan on the
other side of the world. Patterns at this time could be very rich indeed,
frequently incorporating geometric and natural figures, such as branching vines
and blooming flowers.
The industry was very much contained within the home, with
housewives of all social ranks managing their own sewing and embroidery.
However specialised textile workshops did exist, and the first tailors quickly
began to appear by the end of the 14th century.
Many textiles centers sprung up throughout Europe at this
time, however England in particular was always a major exporter of clothed
goods, including embroidered clothes. Called Anglorum Opus, or English work, the products were famous throughout
Europe and highly sought after. Indeed, wool and textile goods continued to be
the main English export until the start of the Industrial Revolution and the
expansion of the British economy.
Industrialised Embroidering
With the Industrial Revolution came mechanised looming
machines, and devices that stitch together clothing several hundred times a
day. Mass produced clothing was, initially, fairly bare-bones and crude, but
eventually came to incorporate more elaborate and decorative designs. While
individually tailored and embroidering still existed, they were very much a
commodity of the well-off. By the end of the century, mass-produced embroidered
clothes were quickly flooding the market, and as the 20th century
progressed new techniques and technologies quickly became available.
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